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Gemstone Knowledge - Must-Knows in the World of Fine Jewelry

Freshwater pearls? Saltwater pearls?

What sets baroque pearls apart? (Part One)

Olivia - September 9, 2019


Let's begin with the formation of natural pearls. When a mollusk senses foreign objects invading its shell, it secretes layers of nacre to encapsulate the intruders, reducing discomfort and gradually forming what we know as "pearls."

Truly natural pearls are exceptionally rare, with perhaps one natural pearl found among fifteen thousand mollusks.

Today, regardless of their price, all pearls are cultivated through artificial techniques.
 


▎The term "natural pearls" commonly used in the market usually refers to cultured pearls.

The often-heard "cultured pearls" refer to pearls that are artificially cultivated.

Depending on the species of mollusk, as well as the cultivation methods and environment, pearls have different names and prices. Many people mistakenly believe that cultured pearls are fake pearls, but in reality, cultured pearls, like natural pearls, are products of pearls enveloping foreign objects. The difference lies in whether this foreign object that causes the formation of pearls is accidental or intentional.

Natural pearls are not afraid of water, but it's best not to wear them while bathing.

Pearls are mostly composed of calcium carbonate and are highly sensitive to acidity and alkalinity. Therefore, we advise customers not to wear pearls while bathing, not because they're afraid of water (after all, pearls grow in water), but because the ingredients in detergents or cosmetics can erode calcium carbonate, causing natural pearls to lose their luster.
 


▎Freshwater Pearls

The most common type of freshwater pearls that people encounter are often produced through non-nucleated cultivation techniques. Because they lack a nucleus (a shape on which pearls can grow), freshwater pearls tend to grow more freely. A single freshwater pearl mussel can produce 10 to 60 pearls, which are typically rice-shaped, oval, or slightly flattened. Truly round pearls are rare, with only 1 or 2 of higher-grade and valuable pearls typically found among 100 freshwater pearls.
 

▎China Produces Over 90% of the World's Pearl Output

The industry of pearl cultivation originated in Japan, where it has a long and renowned history. With the proliferation of pearl cultivation and the increasing market demand, more efficient and large-scale cultivation methods have been continuously innovated in China. Today, the majority of cultured pearls available in the market come from China. It's important to caution enthusiasts of authentic Japanese pearls to be careful not to inadvertently purchase pearls from Japan that have been rebranded as "overwater" and are consequently priced much higher.


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▎New Type of "Nucleated" Freshwater Pearls

Nucleated freshwater pearls were cultivated in 2011, marking a groundbreaking achievement. As a tribute to the great inventor, they were named Edison Pearls. Each pearl is produced by a single mussel, resulting in larger sizes compared to typical non-nucleated freshwater pearls, often ranging above 12mm and reaching up to 20mm, with a higher rate of perfectly round shapes and better luster.

Edison pearls come in a variety of colors, including common shades like white and pink typical of freshwater pearls, as well as more intense hues such as vivid orange, mysterious purple, deep blue, antique bronze, and violet, displaying metallic overtones.

The naturally saturated and vibrant colors of top-grade Edison pearls rival those of saltwater pearls.
 

▎Uniqueness Matters More than Perfection to OYJ

The first time I saw these pearls, I was astonished by their vibrant iridescence! OYJ deliberately chose irregularly shaped Edison pearls with wrinkles and folds instead of opting for perfectly smooth surfaces. Due to their nucleation, while the overall shape remains mostly round, the surface texture resembles fabric wrinkles, imparting a subdued yet luminous quality compared to uniformly smooth pearls.
 


▎Nucleation Allows for Diverse Shapes

The presence of a nucleus enables the cultivation of various distinctive shapes in nucleated freshwater pearls. Unlike non-nucleated pearls that typically form round shapes, nucleated freshwater pearls can be grown into a wide array of unique forms. Coin-shaped and diamond-shaped pearls, for example, are cultivated through nucleation, where the internal nucleus determines the pearl's shape. These pearls are ideal for individuals who appreciate novel designs or seek something unique. Despite their small and delicate appearance, they stand out distinctly from others.
 

真假珍珠怎麼看?

市面上有不少仿製珍珠(玻璃珠、塑膠珠),如何辨別真假?這裡有幾個簡單方法教你辨識:

  • 重量比較:同樣大小,真珍珠比塑膠珠更有份量。
  • 光澤觀察:真珍珠的光澤柔和、有層次;假珠則呈現單一死板的亮光。
  • 表面紋理:真珍珠表面會有天然生長紋理和瑕疵;假珠則過於光滑完美。

淡水珍珠的保養方法?

珍珠的主要成分是碳酸鈣,因此怕酸鹼。雖然珍珠不怕水,但長時間接觸香水、化妝品、清潔劑,會讓光澤黯淡。

Olivia Yao 的保養建議:

  • 配戴習慣:最後配戴,最先卸下,避免與化妝品直接接觸。
  • 清潔方式:使用柔軟的乾布輕拭,不建議浸泡在清潔劑中。
  • 收藏技巧:珍珠飾品應單獨收納在布袋或絨布盒中,避免與鑽石、金屬摩擦。
  • 定期配戴:珍珠需要「呼吸」,長時間不配戴反而會乾裂,偶爾讓它們貼近肌膚,反而能保持濕潤與光澤。

OYJ recommends freshwater pearl products.

淡水珍珠之所以迷人,不只是因為價格親民,更因為它們展現了珍珠最豐富的樣貌。從小巧玲瓏的米珠,到色彩斑斕的愛迪生珠,再到自由奔放的巴洛克,每一顆都蘊含不同的氣質。

對我而言,挑選珍珠就像在挑選一段關於自我的故事。也許你喜歡完美正圓的典雅,也許你傾心於巴洛克的自由不羈,重要的不是「它值多少錢」,而是「它是否映照出你的靈魂」。

下一篇文章介紹海水珠Akoya、日本南洋珠、大溪地黑珍珠……一起探索另一個層次的珍珠世界。:)
 

The same freshwater pearls, with and without nuclei, are vastly different! Can everyone now tell the difference at a glance?

 

"Pearls are always appropriate." - Jackie Kennedy

 

The beauty of pearls truly shines when you wear them.OYJ has carefully selected the following versatile pearl jewelry pieces that are perfect for any occasion.

 

Editor | Olivia

珠寶設計師 / 品牌創辦人 / 會計師 / 旅遊狂熱者,有著不安於室的反骨靈魂,把自小的興趣變成終身職業,從會計師轉換跑道變成珠寶設計師,成立自己的同名品牌,用輕珠寶打動女性的心,現在在全球已經有超過 20 個國際通路可以看到 OLIVIA YAO JEWELLERY,也讓每位有夢想的女性看到更多生活方式的可能。