Gemstone Knowledge - Must-Knows in the World of Fine Jewelry

Freshwater pearls? Saltwater pearls?

What sets baroque pearls apart? (Part Two)

Olivia - September 9, 2019

 

Saltwater pearls are rare and take longer to cultivate, hence, they have higher unit prices.

A single pearl oyster can produce only 1-2 pearls at a time, while freshwater pearl mussels typically produce up to 30-40 pearls.

The global production of Akoya pearls (saltwater pearl oysters)
accounts for only 5% of freshwater pearls.

▎Saltwater pearls are cultured with a nucleus

typically consisting of pearl material enveloping a nucleus made of shell or similar material.

▎They are usually round and have a delicate luster.

The internal nucleus determines the shape, with round shapes being predominant in cultured saltwater pearls. The pearl material is relatively thin, ranging from 0.3 to 0.8 mm, yet it possesses a full luster and magnificent surface shine. Among them, pearls cultured from the Japanese pearl oyster, Akoya, are widely known for their slight pink iridescence. The pink iridescence emitted by these pearls is dreamy and enchanting, earning them the title of "Princess of Pearls."

OYJ's selected styles of saltwater pearls are designed with simplicity in mind. With nearly perfect pearls, they require no additional embellishment; simplicity is enough to showcase their innate beauty.
 

▎Saltwater Pearls Display a Variety of Colors, Rich and Vibrant

The colors of saltwater pearls vary significantly depending on their origin:

• Japanese and Chinese Saltwater Pearls: Primarily white with pinkish hues
• South Sea Pearls: Elegant white pearls and luxurious golden pearls
• Tahitian Pearls: Known for their mysterious black color with undertones of green, blue, and purple, highly esteemed for their unique hues.

Typically, saltwater pearls are relatively small, mostly measuring below 8mm. In Japan, due to advanced cultivation techniques, saltwater pearls of 8-9mm can be found. South Sea pearls and Tahitian pearls generally exceed 9mm, with sizes reaching above 14mm considered exceptionally precious and commanding high prices.
 

▎The Non-Conformist: Mabe Pearls

Mabe pearls, also known as Mabe pearl oysters, are cultivated within the same pearl oysters as saltwater pearls. However, they are the rebellious outliers among all cultured pearls as they are not considered "natural pearls." In the cultivation process, the nucleus of the pearl is fixed onto the shell of the oyster, resulting in only one side being covered with nacre. After harvesting, they need to be manually cut into pearls based on their shape. Unlike other cultured pearls that are harvested as complete pearls, this fundamental difference disqualifies them from being classified as natural pearls.
 

▎Mabe Pearls: Economical and Appealing

Despite not receiving certification as natural pearls, Mabe pearls remain a favorite in the market. They can be cultivated into various shapes, some exceeding 20mm in diameter, with delicate iridescent hues. Moreover, their price is less than one-tenth of similarly sized saltwater pearls. For those seeking large pearls without exceeding their budget, Mabe pearls present an excellent option.
 

▎Baroque Pearls

The term "Baroque" originated from a 17th-century artistic style characterized by elaborate and exaggerated theatrical effects. Baroque pearls are a term of endearment for irregularly shaped pearls that occur accidentally during the artificial cultivation process.

In the early stages of pearl cultivation, the focus was primarily on cultivating round pearls. However, the accidental emergence of irregularly shaped pearls, though not the primary product, captivated many due to their unique shapes. This unexpected beauty sparked creativity among jewelry designers and gradually became an important target for collectors who appreciate distinctive designs. Therefore, in definition, Baroque pearls are not necessarily limited to freshwater or saltwater pearls; broadly speaking, any pearl that deviates from the perfect spherical shape can be considered a Baroque pearl.
 

常見海水珍珠三：Keshi異型海水珠

他是無核培育的海水珠，這類珍珠是在養殖珍珠過程中，珍珠母貝未完全包覆植入的核，而自行分泌珍珠質形成，因此 Keshi 珍珠通常沒有珍珠核，且形狀極不規則。由於沒有核的影響，Keshi 珍珠擁有極高的光澤度，甚至比一般有核珍珠更為閃耀。這類珍珠因造型如同花瓣一般呈現薄片或是不規則米粒狀，有著海水珠的精緻皮光，但又有無核淡水珠的活潑造型，搭配各色天然寶石正好可以自然呈現 OLIVIA YAO 設計系列 Oli 系列活潑柔軟的線條。Keshi 珠輕薄或嬌小，給人一種嬌柔的感覺，透過重複排列強調層次感和份量，在Oli系列中特別適合呈現水紋的柔軟線條。

在 Musée Edition Olivia 更是大量使用 Keshi 珍珠，他如花瓣般的造型恰好的扮演了富麗的文藝復興風格。這種珠體天生細膩且光暈斑斕，不論首飾大小，細細品味總是有份秀氣浪漫的味道。

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常見海水珍珠四：孔克珠

孔克珠（Conch Pearl）是一種極為罕見且珍貴的天然珍珠，來自加勒比海暖水域的女王鳳螺（Queen Conch, Lobatus gigas）。孔克珠和許多異形珠一樣是無核珍珠，且由貝殼內層的鈣質結晶自然形成，因此無法透過人工養殖，只能在捕撈鳳螺時偶然發現。非常地稀有且價格高昂。

孔克珠最具代表性的特點是其獨特的粉紅色系，色澤可從柔和的奶油粉、珊瑚橘到濃郁的玫瑰紅，並可能呈現迷人的火焰紋（Flame Structure），即絲絨狀的光學效果，使其在珠寶界極具收藏價值。此外，孔克珠的形狀多為橢圓或紡錘形，表面細膩且光滑，展現溫潤的瓷器質感。

由於產量極為稀少，每 10 萬顆鳳螺中僅能找到約 1 顆孔克珠，且僅 10% 達到珠寶級標準，因此被視為比鑽石更珍貴的寶石級珍珠，常被用於高級珠寶訂製，如戒指、吊墜與胸針。雖然在我們的常態系列中並沒有使用孔克珠，但OLIVIA YAO 也曾接過孔克珠的訂製，若對孔克珠有興趣也歡迎詢問我們的珠寶顧問。

"Have you all understood the characteristics of saltwater pearls and baroque pearls?
Here's a table to help organize everything for you!"

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OYJ 嚴選巴洛克珍珠商品
 

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Editor | Olivia

珠寶設計師 / 品牌創辦人 / 會計師 / 旅遊狂熱者，有著不安於室的反骨靈魂，把自小的興趣變成終身職業，從會計師轉換跑道變成珠寶設計師，成立自己的同名品牌，用輕珠寶打動女性的心，現在在全球已經有超過 20 個國際通路可以看到 OLIVIA YAO JEWELLERY，也讓每位有夢想的女性看到更多生活方式的可能。